Fish House Punch

Fish House Punch is one of the oldest documented American cocktails, brewed since the 1730s by members of a Philadelphia fishing club and copied at countless tables ever since. The format is generous, the strength deceptive and the flavour deeply nostalgic. With three different spirits, fresh lemon and cold black tea standing in for water, it sits well at the centre of a long winter table and pairs naturally with cold cuts, pies and rich, savoury party food.

Spirits, tea and sugar

Use a dark Jamaican rum for backbone, a soft VSOP brandy or cognac for fruit and a true peach brandy or peach eau-de-vie if you can find one. The tea base is what sets this punch apart from looser modern recipes; it brings tannin and structure that stops the bowl tasting like spirituous lemonade. Brew it strong, cool it completely before mixing, and resist the urge to skip the resting time. A few hours, and ideally an overnight rest in the fridge, lets the spirits marry properly so no single bottle dominates.

Serving a crowd

The block of ice is the heart of the presentation. A single large block, frozen the day before in a plastic tub or loaf tin, melts slowly and keeps the punch cold without thinning it out. By contrast, a bowl filled with cubes will be watery in under an hour. Float thinly sliced lemon rounds on top for colour, and place the bowl somewhere cool rather than next to a radiator. Use small punch cups or teacups so guests can pace themselves, because Fish House Punch is much stronger than its smooth taste suggests. A small jug of cold black tea kept beside the bowl is a kind gesture for topping up later in the evening as the ice melts and the bowl needs a refresh.