Alcohol-Free Eggnog

Most homemade eggnog recipes lean on bourbon, brandy or rum to do two jobs: flavour and preservation. Take the alcohol out and you have to work a little harder on both fronts, but the reward is a drink that tastes more like the spiced custard it ought to be and less like a punch with a topping. This version cooks the eggs properly into a thin pouring custard, which sidesteps any worries about raw yolks and gives a much richer texture than the shake-and-serve style.

Tempering the eggs

The only step worth slowing down for is the tempering. Whisking warm milk into raw yolks too quickly will scramble them; pour it in a thin, steady stream while whisking and the yolks will heat gently without setting. Once everything is combined, return the pan to a very low heat and stir constantly. The mixture is ready when it coats the back of a wooden spoon and a line drawn through it with your finger stays put — around 75°C if you are using a thermometer. Push it too far and you will end up with sweet scrambled eggs; stop too soon and the eggnog will be thin.

Warm or cold

The drink works both ways, and it is worth trying each. Served warm straight from the pan, alcohol-free eggnog feels closest to a proper winter pudding in a glass — soft, comforting and best in a small heatproof tumbler. Chilled for a couple of hours, it firms up into something thicker and more custard-like, with the spices coming forward more clearly on a cold tongue. Either way, grate fresh nutmeg over the top just before drinking — pre-ground nutmeg loses its perfume quickly and never quite matches the lift of the real thing.

Strain the finished eggnog through a fine sieve no matter which serving temperature you choose. Even a perfectly cooked custard will catch a few stray threads of egg white, and removing them gives the smooth, glossy texture that distinguishes a homemade eggnog from a shop-bought one.