Gin

Gin is usually filed under summer - all crisp tonic and chilled glasses. Yet it has quietly become one of the more interesting spirits to reach for in winter. Its defining juniper backbone and the chorus of botanicals around it respond beautifully to gentle warmth, opening up in a way that suits a mug in cold hands every bit as well as a highball on a terrace.

Why gin works warmed

The key word is gentle. Gin is built on aromatics - juniper, coriander, citrus peel, angelica and whatever else a distiller chooses - and these volatile compounds bloom when warmed, filling the air with fragrance. Push the heat too far, though, and you simply boil the alcohol and the lighter aromatics away, leaving something flat and harsh. The trick is to warm a gin serve to no more than around 70°C, hot enough to release the perfume but never a rolling boil. Treated this way, gin’s botanicals fold naturally into apple, cinnamon and citrus. It is also one of the four core flavour elements of Hot Apple Gin, a warm gin-based apple and spice drink that leans on exactly this principle.

Styles to consider

London Dry is the classic reference: dry, assertive and juniper-forward, it holds its own against sweetness and spice without disappearing. Contemporary or “new western” gins dial the juniper back in favour of citrus, floral or savoury botanicals, which can bring intriguing nuance to a warm serve but may need a firmer hand with the spice to avoid being lost. Neither is the right choice in every case - a robust mull suits a classic dry gin, while a more delicate apple serve can showcase a softer, botanical style.

A spirit-forward direction

For years, winter warmers meant wine or whisky. Gin’s arrival in the category is part of a broader move towards spirit-forward warm serves - drinks that keep the clarity and aromatic lift of a good spirit rather than burying it under sugar. Stir a measure into hot cloudy apple juice with a cinnamon stick and a twist of orange, and the appeal is immediate.